Thursday, August 27, 2009

Bangkok in August 2009

I have been in Bangkok for a few days and while the first day and a bit was spent snoozing and loafing around I've now been out for a spot of food and a general look around.

There seem to be more tourists about than in May / June but not exactly elbow to elbow. Walking along Soi Nana it was noticeable that the Golden Bar outside Nana Hotel was empty by its usual standards. It was a similar case with Big Dogz.

Further along Hanrahan's Irish Pub was almost empty - and it's a biggish place.

Finnegan's Irish Pub which is a single unit was a bit busier but nothing to get excited about. Over a beer I watched the NEC staff leave as the bars closed and the ratio of bar staff to customers was staggering! There had to be 10-15 bar staff for every tourist. A lass told me at one place that things were very quiet by NEC standards and had been for some time.

On Tuesday night I had a late bite in the old Dynasty and was the only soul there around 1 a.m. which was almost eerie. I don't think I have ever seen so few people there - and there were none outside sipping one for the road. Even on Wednesday afternoon during the 'happy hour' there were much fewer having a jar than used to be the case.

A short trip to Chidlom on the Skytrain on Wednesday afternoon: lots of people on the train and lots of people milling about the Central Department Store but not a lot of commercial activity. I got what I wanted to buy in Marks & Sparks and was pleasantly surprised with the available discounts - 15, 30 and even 50% depending on the goods and how old the range was. Several floors below there were lots of discounts on perfumes and eau de toilette products. Some of these are continuing until later in the year.

One most unusual remark: there are fewer hawkers peddling their goods around Soi Nana. I put this down to a lack of customers. I suspect that, just as in Pattaya, they have gone back up country for a few months as it's cheaper to live there and there's no point in paying rent for a place to stay if you're not making enough money.

As for accommodation - rates haven't come down since earlier in the summer. Occupancy rates are still pretty much in the doldrums. Some of the 'bargain' offers are to be found in the up-market hotels but can best be described as a pleasant surprise rather than something that would entice you to changing your accommodation. However, a few pretty ordinary bars where they were charging 105 for a Heineken are now asking for 95 - not what usually happens I know. The staff are, however, faster than ever asking for a drink - a practice which doesn't encourage many people to do so or stay put!

For the night owls: closing time for the bars is currently 2 a.m. The usual stalls are operating along the Sukhumvit Rd area when you come out of Soi Nana or Soi 5 and 7. They sell Thai food and a decent range of liquor. Prices vary - some are expensive given that you're sitting on a plastic stool more fitted to kindergarten and some of the operators assume you don't know the price or that you are pissed. Additionally, you have to run the gauntlet of ladies of the third category as they pass by on their way home or on to a club, perhaps?

Instead of the Jehovah's witnesses which I have sometimes spotted outside NEC, there is an ever-growing number of ladyboys. They don't appear to be aggressive but they definitely have staying-power. They spend the entire evening there until they score. Failing that they venture further afield after 2 a.m.

For those heading this way soon, the 'rainy season' isn't worth talking about neither in Pattaya nor Bangkok. There's the very occasional shower but you don't get rained-in anywhere. Now, having said that, it will probably pour it down for the next couple of weeks!

One more day to do a bit of looking around and then it's off to Pattaya again - for an, err, exciting weekend!

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